Friday, June 10, 2022

WRAP UP: Impressions, learnings, memories, next time


Post-trip

It's been almost two weeks since our return; I can feel the trip receding into the past. Here's a last reflection on our impressions, learnings, favorite memories.

Impressions of England/the UK

From our first trip, in 1999, I remember being impressed with how much (written) history England has, and also with how international London is, in terms of people, languages, and food. I also remember really liking the sandwiches in England, and being impressed with how many flavors of "crisps" (=potato chips) there were.

This time, I continued to be impressed with the history and with London's diversity and internationality (we heard foreign languages every single day). I wasn't as blown away by the sandwiches, but still find them superior to typical US sandwiches. The bread is generally better, they aren't overstuffed with meat, and sometimes they feature creative combinations. I didn't see quite as many odd flavors of crisps this time, but I did have a nice packet of rosemary thyme crisps in Threlkeld.


What additionally impressed us this time was:

  • Sheep: There really are a LOT of sheep in England. Everywhere. And stone fences everywhere. I don't usually buy much on a trip, in the way of souvenirs, but I couldn't resist a little sheep...
  • Lots of small villages: As mentioned in the previous post, there aren't big expanses devoid of humans, as there can be in the US, at least not where we went. Instead, the countryside is dotted with a network of bucolic little country villages, lots of them. The pretty green pastoral landscape is criss-crossed with stone fences and hedges; there's always evidence of human activity.
  • Diversity: London and Oxford were very diverse. The rest of the country seemed pretty White, not that many Black people or East Asians or Hispanics.
  • Great public transport: There's even buses in the Lake District; we were able to catch one to go back from Threlkeld to Keswick. Bus service in Oxford was very frequent and easy.
  • Narrower streets, roundabouts: Most streets are old enough that they weren't really built for cars; they're narrow compared to average US streets. It's nice in a way; makes for a more human scale. Doug says it took him several days to get used to the different scale when driving; he'd miss a street or intersection because it was so much smaller, less noticeable than expected. Having roundabouts felt less intrusive on the landscape than our big expressway interchanges.  
  • Pedestrianized town centers: Bath, Oxford, Keswick, and York all had parts of their city that were pedestrian-only, at least for most of the day. We really liked having that freedom from traffic.
  • Tidiness: Streets seemed cleaner (even in London) than most places of comparable size here. Also just a bit more orderly in general, e.g. fewer weeds or broken/discarded stuff.
  • Clouds: There were more clouds, puffier, and more defined. Very pretty at times.
  • Weather: There was never any heavy, unrelenting rain, and not even that much light rain. I always thought England was more grey and rainy. Is it climate change or was it a lucky fluke?
  • Horse chestnut trees: We saw lots of pretty, flowering horse chestnut trees, especially in Oxford.
  • History: In 1999, I was impressed with all the kings and queens history. This time we learned about older stuff—I hadn't realized much of Britain has a Roman and even a Vikings past.

Learnings (what went right, what to improve)

Doug and I each made lists of things that worked, things we would perhaps do differently next time. A lot of the items on our full lists are personal, depending on your travel style, and some are beyond your control. For instance, we'd packed for colder, rainier weather, and in retrospect some of that packing was unnecessary, but how could we have known? The typical weather pattern for May said precipitation about 50% of the time. 


I would say that the key factors that helped the trip's success were: 

  • May turned out to be a great time to travel; also the longer daylight was an unexpected plus
  • Doug had done careful advance planning, including booking train tickets
  • We were prepared to do tap-to-pay
  • We packed light
  • We could use Google maps for navigation (it even knew what bus to take, what the stops were)
  • I brought the COVID testing kits, and some cough drops

Overall we had a really good hit rate, in terms of liking what we did. In retrospect, Doug feels that the trip to the ocean wasn't worth it, but I still liked the experience—there was an interesting pay toilet there and one of the "chatty benches" was there. It was a significant detour time-wise, though. Here are a few of our other thoughts:

  • Do a little more advance planning for the longer stays (Oxford, London)
  • Book London lodging earlier, to have more options (we booked about 2 weeks before leaving, which was about 4 weeks before the time in London, but some options were gone already)
  • Pack even lighter
  • Plan a little more about health precautions, maybe bring thermometer. Here's an article I just read about precautions to take: Yahoo news article.  FYI, as of this Sunday, 6/12, the US no longer requires a negative COVID test for re-entry.
  • Possibly try some bike and/or scooter rentals
  • Possibly try apartment style lodging for longer stays


Favorite memories

We each made lists of our favorite memories, but there are far too many to include here. With the good weather we had, and things generally working out, there were many times that were fun, surprising, interesting, memorable. There were a few low points, but remarkably few: I got totally exhausted on the "three meadow" day in Oxford (it was the day with the highest step count), and we got very anxious when our rental car wasn't available on time in Bath. But even on the exhausting Three Meadow Day, at the end there was watching The Cows and Kite, one of my all-time favorite memories of the trip (video is 30 seconds).


I will mention three memorable things though, one specific moment and two general experiences. When we went to see the Rievaulx Abbey ruins, Doug had been booking it on the road, trying to get there before it closed. We got there right at closing, but they let us in for the half hour between the closing and actually shooing everyone out. When we left, one of the staff felt bad that we had had so little time there, and she gifted us with the guidebook to the Abbey, so that we can continue to learn more about it. It was a very generous and unexpected gesture, that we will long remember. 

The two more general positive experiences were: 1) Most of the places we went to had a river, or a lake; we very much enjoyed walking along the rivers. 2) The driving experience (indirect for me), was challenging but ultimately one of the most interesting parts of the trip. There was a difficult hairpin turn early on, but once Doug got more comfortable with the car and driving stick again, he enjoyed the challenge of it.

Just for fun, here are some photos of me in various places (mostly taken by Doug). Can you tell where I was? The main places we visited were: Bath - Oxford - Stonehenge/Avery - Lake District  - York - London


Where we would go on a return visit

We've already started thinking a little about what a return visit might be like. Although we enjoyed all the places we went this time and would enjoy seeing them again, given limited time/money, the top places we'd revisit would be Keswick and London. We'd be curious to explore Wales and Scotland, on a return visit, and to go somewhere along the coast. 

We'll have to see how our own lives go, how COVID goes, etc. The UK is an easy destination to contemplate because there isn't a language problem, and it's relatively more similar culturally, though different enough to be interesting. Its current COVID status is very good. But we may want to consider other possibilities, too, if COVID becomes less of an issue.

Until we meet again...

If you've enjoyed the blog, it would be lovely to hear a brief word or two from you. Many have already written or commented; those people don't need to do so again. In any case, thanks for following along; it was especially fun to get feedback from others who've been to England. 

Happy travels, one and all!

Sunday, June 5, 2022

POST-TRIP3: Signs, Names, Accidents, COVID

Post-trip

Fun Signs

I loved noticing amusing signs in England. The first two bench signs were at Arnside (near the ocean) and York. What a great idea to explicitly mark a bench for chatting! The third bench sign was a pleasant surprise on the way to the Castlerigg stone circle near Keswick, and the last sign is a stern "Don't be a tosser" admonition, seen in York.

Signs along roads were fun, too.


Town Names

One of the things I enjoyed most about driving through the English countryside was getting to see all the crazy town names, which I first noticed on the road signs. Below is just a sampling of ones I spotted on the road, plus a few from a map. I had no idea there were quite so many interesting names! You can tell many of them were established long ago; it's almost like a foreign language because many word meanings and usages have changed. I also looked up populations, in part to see just how tiny some of these places are. The size categorization here is my own; officially I think there are other ways these are categorized.

BIGGER TOWNS (population >2000 up to ~5000)

Bourton-on-the-Water (3296)

Easingwold (4627)

Killinghall (4132)

Ludgershall (5247)

Moreton-in-Marsh (3493)

Thirsk (4998)


SMALL VILLAGES (population >600 to 2000)

Ampleforth  (1345)  Ampleforth means the ford where the sorrel grows.

Giggleswick (1270)

Hampsthwaite (1083)


TINY VILLAGES (population 200-600)

Beckwithshaw (425)

Horton-in-Ribblesdale (428)

Lower Slaughter (236) The term Slaughter here meant a slough or muddy place.

Monxton (530) 

Newton-on-Ouse (599)

Oswaldkirk (230)

Threlkeld (423)

Yealand Redmayne (326)

One of the things that was interesting about the countryside was that it felt very rural, and yet actually there were many tiny towns (with great names). I am used to there being long stretches of mostly empty space between some towns in the US, but in the UK you never go very far before you run into some tiny town or another, but they're all so small it still feels very rural.  It felt like much of England is either urban or rural/small town-y, without as much of the in-between suburban sprawl so commonplace in the US. I didn't really see enough of England though, to know if that's true.


Please Drive Carefully

When we were driving, as you approached a small town, almost all of them had a sign announcing the town's name but also exhorting you to "Please Drive Carefully". There were slight variations on the theme, it might be "Please Drive Carefully Through Our Town", or one sign said something like "We Welcome Careful Drivers". It was pretty ubiquitous, but I had a hard time catching a photo because the small towns would come up so quickly, and there's often not a good way to stop to take a photo. There were more attractive versions we saw, but here's two that I managed to capture, at any rate. We saw dozens.


Road Accident Rates

Writing about these signs, and experiencing the challenges of country road driving ourselves, made me curious to find out just what is the rate of road accidents in the UK. One of the reasons I like doing this blog is that it makes me think about things and look into things more—like for the post on Dinner Food, I looked up info about the various chains (Nando's, Giggling Squid, Tortilla). 

Looking at a variety of sources, the bottom line is that the UK is a relatively safe place to be, road-wise, compared with other countries. On one site, ranking countries by road fatalities, the US is 120th in the list (out of 183), with 11.1 fatalities per 100,000 population, while the UK is near the bottom, coming in at 173rd, with only 2.81 fatalities per 100,000. It comes in lower than many comparable European countries.

Other sources additionally mention that in the UK, while more accidents happen in urban areas, a higher percent of fatal accidents happen in rural areas, at speeds around 21-30mph—which I can understand now, having been on those roads. I found a good overall analysis of differences between the US and UK car/driving experience here, in the form of 23 slides comparing the two. It mentions that the US rate is higher in part because people drive more, and longer distances. Still, it seems clear that the UK is doing better than many other similar countries, as well as better than the US.


COVID

It's been depressing to come back to the US, with its higher rates of COVID transmission. I hear on the news that Alameda county reinstated a mask mandate, and here in San Mateo, many people are still wearing masks in indoor settings (about 1/3 of the people at our local Trader Joe's). I also checked the NYTimes COVID reports as of June 4th:

  • The US COVID case rate is 31 per 100,000; the 14-day trend is that it's decreasing slightly (-6%).
  • The UK COVID case rate is 6 per 100,000; the 14-day trend is that it's dropping rapidly (-64%).

We did mask more in London, both because it's so populous and because Doug had a sore throat. But in general, we felt fairly carefree in England, more so than we felt here, before we left, or now, after our return. It's one of the things I miss.

Next Post

The next post will be the final post, including favorite trip memories, thoughts on what went well or not, and some thoughts looking towards "next time". I had wanted to write more on some topics, but I feel the need to wrap up and move on. Monday will be one month from when we left!